Lupra Village: A Hidden Cultural Gem in Mustang, Nepal

I don’t think many people talk about Lupra when they mention Mustang. They go on about Kagbeni or Muktinath, sometimes Jomsom too. Lupra just waits on the side, in that dry and windy land. Honestly, I almost walked past it. The place feels simple, maybe even rough, but the Bon traditions are still alive. Families here, the Thakali and Nubri keep them going in their own way. If you are heading to Muktinath for pilgrimage or just trying not to follow the same path as everyone else, you’ll find Lupra along the Panda Khola. That’s a small stream that runs down into the Kali Gandaki. It isn’t the kind of place that tries to impress you right away. But give it time, and it stays in your thoughts.

Where is Lupra Village Located?

Lupra village, Nepal, lies between Muktinath and Jomsom at an altitude of 3,050 m above sea level. It takes about 25 minutes to reach the village from Jomsom Airport. Lupra village is located at a distance of 7 km from Jomsom and 3 km from Kagbeni and can be reached by jeep or private bike.

Lupra is accessible via a lesser-known trekking route known as the Lupra Kagbeni trail. This makes it a perfect detour for trekkers looking to avoid the dusty road and explore more authentic mountain villages.

Lupra Trek: A Culturally Enriching Side Route

The Lupra trek is a short yet rewarding segment that connects Jomsom with Muktinath to Jomsom. This short trail leads you through the dramatic landscapes and apple orchards, with the backdrop of Mount Nilgiri. Lupra is the only remaining Bon village in the heart of the Mustang region. This peaceful trail takes you to the spiritual and incredibly scenic ancient Bon Gompa (monastery) of Lupra that still predates Tibetan Buddhism.

The Lupra trek crosses the trail along the Panda Khola River, which sometimes floods heavily during glacier bursts in the Himalayas region. The rocky and dry terrain of Lupra lies next to the visible caves and gets covered in snow during winter.

Bon Religion: A Living Heritage of Lupra

Lupra… probably one of the last places in Nepal where people still follow Bon. I heard it’s older than Buddhism in Tibet, though I’m not totally sure. Different gods, different rituals—it feels kind of strange if you only know the Buddhist way. To me it was like stepping back into something older, not polished but real. The monastery is painted red, white, and black. not shiny, kind of rough but heavy with meaning. Flags you will find there are not the normal ones you see everywhere; these look different.

I saw a dance once; I couldn’t tell if it was for the village or maybe just us wanderers watching. Inside—walls cracked, paint fading, statues old but somehow alive. If you’re lucky, you talk to a monk. I did, half the words I didn’t get, but his voice stuck with me. Felt like Bon was hanging on by a thread in most places, but here it still breathes. fragile, but still here.

What is Bon Religion?

Bon, Bhon, or Bhonpo is an indigenous spiritual tradition of Tibet that is deep-rooted in the worship of elements of nature. This religion predates the arrival of Buddhism in the Tibetan region, with its unique history, teachings, rituals, deities, and cosmology.

Bon is believed to have originated in the Zhang Zhung region of Western Tibet before the 7th century. The Bon religion is believed to have been initiated by Tonpa Shenrab Miwoche, a legendary figure said to have lived thousands of years ago. The Bon rituals involve exorcism rituals, sky burials, and mountain worship. The Bon monks practice in isolation but join the community festival.

Bon teachings include the faith of rebirth and karma. Their rituals and ceremonies guide the dead through the bardo. They celebrate seasonal festivals with masked dances and worship the 4-directional deity with the belief that they protect them from evil spirits of the four directions.

Village that Follows Tibet’s Bon Tradition

Lupra is the Last Bon village of Mustang. The Young Drung Phuntsok Ling Bonpo Monastery is probably one of the oldest on Earth, built in the 12th century by Lama Yangton Tashi Gyaltsen. The founding father of this Bon village planted a walnut tree to determine whether a village could thrive here. This ancient walnut tree is still there, symbolizing that the existence of the Bon religion is still flourishing in the village.

HH Menri Tridzin Rinpoche is a significant Bon figure here as the chief Rinpoche. The word Lupra is believed to be made from two words: Lu, meaning the spirit of a snake, and Pra, meaning cliffs. This word suggests the presence of the manmade caves on the cliff hill that were made for meditation in the lower as well as Upper Mustang.

The Gon Phuk is popularly known as the Winter cave, situated above the village, which was used for retreat by Lama Yangton. Similarly, on the opposite side of the river, there lies the Nyamlen Phuk, which was used by great yogis and meditators.

The Lupra village is also known for the famous Bon rituals, Lu jins, a form of exorcism in the Bon religion. The ancient wooden prayer wheels are still found intact on the stone walls. The Chasey Kengtse Hostel (AD 2,001), run by the community and the local schools, provides formal education for the students. The village also has a Tibetan doctor’s hospital for the benefit of the locals.

Lupra Cultural Village: Authentic Thakali Lifestyle

Lupra village has the settlement of the Thakali people, with the dominance of the Bon religion here. The Lupra cultural village preserves traditional Thakali architecture, lifestyles, and food habits. Primarily of Thakali ethnicity, they speak the Sino-Tibetan Thakali language. Lupra village has about 14-20 households with a population of around 90. The mud houses are whitewashed with flat roofs and wooden beams. The courtyards are neatly paved, and a stack of dried firewood is around.

One can feel the warm hospitality of the locals, and visitors can try traditional Thakali meals, brewed butter tea, and local raksi (locally fermented alcoholic drink). There are some homestays. The people of Lupra village are engaged in hospitality and entrepreneurship and operate hotels and lodges along trekking routes.

Travelers can learn to cook dhindo, ferment alcohol, and prepare apricot and apple dishes. This is a rare opportunity to experience authentic Lupra Thakali village life in the Community Homestays, such as Mustang Bon Homestay Village, Bon Guest House, and Musk Deer Lodge, for pilgrims and trekkers. These lodges offer you traditional meals and simple rooms with a warm ambiance.

For more modern comfort, visitors can reach Jomsom or Kagbeni, with a larger number of guesthouses and hotels. The people of Lupra village are involved in farming and rearing sheep, goats, and chickens.

Lupra Kagbeni Trail: An Offbeat Adventure

The Lupra-Kagbeni Trail offers a serene and culturally immersive alternative to the popular Annapurna Circuit. This less-travelled trail branches off near Gyu La Pass (approx. 4,077m) and leads to the ancient Bon village of Lupra. Unlike other busy routes of  Mustang, this route stands in solitude and is ideal for anthropologists, photographers, and nature enthusiasts.

Small farms with small apple and walnut orchards remind us of a rural lifestyle unchanged for centuries. The narrow alleys and paths past cowsheds, and even ancient ruins, tell stories of a community once vibrant among millet, buckwheat, and bean fields.

How to Include Lupra Trek in Your Trekking Itinerary

Jomsom, Pangling, and Kagbeni are popular settlements around the Lupra village. One extra day can be added to the itinerary via Lupra from Muktinath to Jomsom. Various homestays and restaurants are available in the village, run by locals. This village is recommended for travelers seeking spiritual or rural experiences.

Best Time to Visit Lupra

September and October are the season of festivals in Nepal. The local festivals are celebrated with masked dances and rituals.  The spring (March–May) is another season with warm, clear skies and clear views of Nilgiri peaks in the background. The monsoon (June–August) is not a good season to travel to the Lupra village, as the trails can be muddy and the Panda river may flow with a large volume, with the risk of flooding. Landslides are also possible risks in the rainy season. Winter is also preferred for visiting the Lupra village, with occasional snow in the higher areas.

Travel Tips for Visiting Lupra

Mustang is a remote place with a limited number of accommodations and modern facilities. You need to carry cash, as ATMs do not work in the area. The Lower Mustang offers limited facilities with a small number of lodges and teahouses. The road network is good and is connected via the Kaligandaki road section. As you are travelling to the most arid place in the country, carry warmer clothes. Follow and respect the customs and traditions of the Lupra village as well as the monasteries.

Follow the safety protocols while you are visiting the caves and trek to the ancient paths. Be mindful while talking to the locals, and always ask for permission before taking photographs. Learn to say Tashi Delek. This is a greeting in Bon and Tibetan culture that might ease the start of a conversation. Live in harmony with nature; it’s a portal to another world.  Stay hydrated and prepare for altitude if you’re coming from lower elevations.

Final Thoughts: Discover the Soul of Mustang in Lupra

If you’re someone who values authentic cultural encounters over crowded trails, the Lupra Hidden Village Mustang experience is for you. From its rich Bon religion to its Thakali heritage, from scenic trails to spiritual silence, Lupra Mustang is a rare gem waiting to be discovered.

Let this Lupra cultural village inspire your next journey into the mystical lands of Nepal.